|Universal Rings: As mentioned elsewhere, I used a
different universal ring design than Kenneth. My design uses three rings,
a 5/8" thick 2" OD/1.75" ID outer ring
and two 1/4' thick 1.75" OD/1.25" ID inner
|The rings are cut from tubing. I cut some by using a parting
tool in the lathe. I found it was much quicker to cut
over-thick slices with an abrasive cutoff saw and then true up the
ends in the lathe. It's often difficult to mount
thin disks in the chuck. The face of my chuck is true so
I position a spacer between the piece and the chuck face, then
tighten the chuck followed by removing the spacer. The
photo shows a spacer behind an outer
|There are eight bolt holes through the inner rings. I made a
drilling template on the rotary table. In fact, I made
it twice; the first time the hole pattern wasn't concentric.
The photo shows the pattern, note the extra eight hole
markings. I also cut a 1/2" thick piece of the outer tube
to hold the inner rings for drilling. The OD of the inner
rings is about 0.015" smaller then the ID of the outer
ring. The three brass strips are shims to hold the inner
rings concentric to the outer ring. If both inner rings are
positioned the same, they are aligned with each other. I
drilled two holes through the target ring, inserted a couple screws
to hold them in position and then just drilled the other six holes
deep enough to mark the target piece.
|The next step was to remove the pattern and use the target piece drilled and marked above as a pattern to drill the second inner
|This photo shows the rings for the six universal rings.
|The next step was to drill the four holes in the inner rings for
the sleeve bearings. The sleeve bearings are 1/4"
long 5/16" OD 1/4" ID oil impregnated bronze -- McMaster-Carr
part # 6391K126 at 23 cents each. The two inner
rings were first bolted together and then the location of the bearing holes
marked. The marks were center punched and then a center
drill used to deepen the mark. The four holes were then dilled
with a 1/8" drill. The 1/8 drill in the drill press was
then used to align opposing holes. After the pair of holes
were aligned, the drill press vise was tightened to hold the rings in
position. The 1/8" drill was then removed and a
5/16" drill used to enlarge the the two aligned holes. This process was
repeated for the other pair of bearing holes in the pair of inner
|The next step was to silver solder one of the inner rings inside
the outer ring.
The two pieces were cleaned in the pickling solution and then
fluxed. Four pieces of flat silver solder were then inserted
between the inner and outer ring. The strips were positioned
midway between the holes for the bearings so the solder didn't flow
into the bearing holes. A length of 5/16"
hex rod was used as a spacer under the inner ring when the pieces
|The soldered pieces were then cleaned in the pickling solution and
four 1/8" oil holes drilled in the outer ring. The other inner ring was sawed in half. The
completed ring with bearings is shown on the right. I
was unable to make the bearing holes identical in all the pieces.
each of the split rings is marked so that it can be associated with
the correct mate. (No worry, auto engine bearing caps and
connecting rod bearing caps are also not interchangeable and marked
in a similar way.)
|This shows the partially assembled ring ----- the shafts and eight
bolts must be added to complete the assembly.