Shay Engine Mount
Note: The Engine Mount was fabricated after the frames were made, many months after the engine was put together.
While making the line shafts, drive shafts and universal joints I kept thinking I'd have to make that dreaded engine mount before the drive train could be tested. Mid way through the universal joint fabrication the lathe drive belt broke. It was going to take over a week to get a replacement belt. So, I was faced with lawn work or making the engine mount. That was a no brainer.
Kenneth welded the parts of his engine mount. My welds are unsightly and about the size of a scale brick so I chose to silver solder the parts of the mount. Sound silver soldering requires that the joint be heated through unlike a weld where the heat can be localized. Slow thorough heating also heats nearby clamps to the point where they go limp, so forget about clamping parts to be silver soldered. The parts should be pinned or screwed together. I prefer to screw the parts together because it permits everything to be checked out before the actual soldering.
The photo below shows the parts of the mount. ( Note that one of the engine mounting holes in the bottom bar is out of line. This was done to avoid a hard spot in the crankcase casting.) The top and bottom bars were slotted and tabs were left on the vertical bars so that everything interlocked. This design made the mount sturdy when held together by the eight screws and kept everything straight during the soldering. The initial slots in the top and bottom bars were about 0.030" deep. After I screwed everything together I found the the bottom to stick out about 1/8" too far. (Slight error in the angles.) I corrected this by making the slots deeper. After everything checked out OK, I took it apart again, cleaned the joint areas, fluxed and then silver soldered everything together. I used very thin solder strips in the joints along with small pieces of solder at the edges of the joints.
Update 12/06/03: The mount as described above was attached to the frame with four 1/4" bolts. The bolts went through the frame from the inside into threaded holes in the mount. This worked fine except that the boiler must be removed to install or remove the mount. That turned out to be a poor design (it was really dumb!) So, changed design so that the bolts are installed from the outside through the mount and screw into the frame. Since the frame already had 1/4" holes, couldn't thread the holes for 1/4" bolts. Instead, installed E-Z LOK thin wall threaded inserts in the frame. The insets used were threaded 3/8-16 on the outside and 1/4-28 on the inside. Those 1/4" holes in the frame had to be enlarged (drilled) to 5/16" and then tapped 3/8-16 for the inserts. The following website has more detail on these inserts: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/EZLOK/EZLOK.htm